A trench coat love letter

In 2023, “stolen valor” popped onto my radar, tied to the workwear trend that had seemingly taken over every corner of fashion. The term described people dressing in blue-collar gear without actually enduring any of the real-life challenges. Basically, playing dress-up but without the calloused hands.

It made me think of the military. Earlier this year, I binge-watched Masters of the Air and got completely hooked on the bomber jackets, shearling linings, and mechanic trousers. These styles are still very much alive and well today, and honestly, no garment has gone through as many reinventions as the trench coat.

The trench coat was originally created in the early 1800s as part of a full-weather outfit that also included a brimmed hat and high boots. Over time, designers improved the fabric and coatings to boost breathability and weather resistance, making it a favorite for outdoorsy types and military personnel. By the time WWI rolled around, the trench coat was basically a uniform.

The wartime trench coat—the one we all picture—was double-breasted, knee-length, and belted. It had this “gun flap” draped over one shoulder, allegedly to help with recoil, though I highly doubt that thin fabric offered much in terms of protection. It probably just helped with ventilation or kept rain off while you were moving your arms around. Each coat came with D-rings on the belt to carry essentials like holsters, map cases, or swords. These days, you’ll notice those D-rings are mostly MIA—probably a way to cut costs (or because most of us don’t need to carry a sword).

My first trench-adjacent experience was with a rubberized cotton Macintosh. It was single-breasted, with sealed seams and a rubberized coating for waterproofing. In theory, I loved it. In practice? Not so much. It sat in my closet for years. The fabric was stiff and noisy, like wearing a crumpled newspaper, and the coating made it sticky to touch and lacking any breathability. It was too short, too slim to fit even a sweater underneath, and required high-maintenance care. Not exactly practical.

Last Spring, when the storms rolled through Paris, I lamented my thin closet forced by a suitcase and the clothes left at home. For inspiration I biked to the ‘hip’ coffee spot - where fashionable twenty-somethings sip lattes and fiddle with their vaporizers. Be it coincidence or Baader–Meinhof, trench coats were everywhere - short, long, tan, black and olive. You name it.

Five trench coats in two photos.

That reignited my obsession, and I started combing through vintage stores, confident that the trend would lead to plenty of options. But I’m picky. I needed the perfect one—double-breasted, long, and with D-rings. The first two were absolute must-haves, making the hunt much harder. The few I found in Paris second-hand were priced at over €500, made of polyester, and honestly, had seen better days.

Through years of late-night eBay search curation, a few in the States matched my filters. My lack of impulse control got the best of me, and I bought two. One is a beige cotton-poly blend with a removable wool collar and liner. Perfect for durability and versatility. The other? A wool olive beauty, no gun flap, but in immaculate condition. The wool provides a nicer drape that matches the cleaner shoulder design. Obsession officially satisfied. With autumn on the way, I’m more than ready for the next storm in Paris.