A Love Letter to French Footwear
While the US and England tend to get most of the love for quality footwear, and Spain is the "new kid" on the block, France has been quietly making some excellent shoes for decades.
When it comes to footwear, at least that on the more ‘proper’ (ye old English) end of the spectrum, there are notable US and UK brands that immediately come to mind: Crockett & Jones, Alden, etc. But within France there are several makers doing unique things in a high-quality way. In fact, I think the trend I’ve witnessed with French footwear has been to differentiate, through styles and silhouettes, from the English-speaking counterparts.
Saving you the history lesson on Victorian or Tudor era footwear, and heels of King Louis, instead I present some of my favorite French brands.
Paraboot
No stranger over the past year with the rise in popularity of their “Michael” style, Paraboot made its name on traditional workwear shoes. Founded in 1908, they introduced rubber soles, waterproofing, and stitched soles onto boots. In the 80’s trends were pushing men away from suits and to more casual tweeds and corduroys. Capitalizing on this trend, Paraboot’s Michael was widely successful in Italy and elsewhere, becoming very popular in the 80’s and now again in 20’s.
When I was last in the market for a boot, I turned to Paraboot. Looking for that chunky profile to match the thicker (and more casual) fabrics of winter I bought a pair of the Mucy in black (pictured). The last on that is wider, and sizing is tricky, but they are built like a tank. For those more on trend, and in the summer mindset, they also have a new fisherman sandal that I’m hoping to check out soon.
Heschung
Founded in 1934, but only recently on my radar, is Heschung. They have a cute store conveniently located blocks from the Tuileries among other boutiques which I visited several years ago. I bought a simple snuff suede Chukka boot that to this day is one of my favorites.
In recent years they have become more adventurous with their styling. First, I noticed several pairs of motorcycle boots being introduced – extra detailing and leather being applied to the top vamp where the shifter would hit, and sufficient lacing to cover up legs from pants riding up. They’ve also taken to more multi-piece dress boots. They of course have a core collection, but it is these more unique pieces I find myself drawn to, like their new Oxalis or Como mules.
New Brands
The list below are all relatively new to me, but not new to shoemaking. I’m going to make a point to try to visit a couple while I’m in Paris to see them in person. While I haven’t personally experienced them, I’m still confident in including them on this list based on their history and affiliations.
Jacques Solovière
To my eye they have several variations on two unique designs: a Belgian loafer (with the hallmark apron), and a whole-cut with a pattern of extra leather in lieu of a tongue. It’s the latter that really excites me, and something I haven’t seen before. From the top it almost has a sneaker effect, with the rippling of the leather creating a more casual aesthetic.
La Botte Gardiane
At the start of the Fisherman sandal trend last summer, La Bon Facture, another French brand, began selling a unique version. Not shortly after No Man Walks Alone, a NYC based online boutique began selling the same sandal a different colorway. As it turns out, both were from La Botte Gardiane. They also appear to offer an array of more classic styles, but their sandals have piqued my interest.
Notable mentions
The below are on my radar, and worth mentioning here. These brands all seem to make classic styles, and are widely known for quality.
- J.M. Weston
- Septieme Largeur
- LodinG
Corthay
I leave Corthay for last solely because it appeals to a different market, but I can’t have a list of quality French footwear without them. They specialize in made-to-measure, with myriad customization and immense levels of finishing. That said, they come with a price tag to match.